2009 Sea of Cortez

From La Paz north to Los Gatos

 

Saturday, March 7, 2009:  7:55 a.m.  Cast off Singlar Marina in Mazatlan, fuel up and out the small El Cid channel without encountering someone coming in, or worse, the "dreaded dredge" that prevents boats from entering and leaving at certain times of the day.  The sea was calm and glassy as predicted and we were hoping it would stay that way for the two-day crossing.

Nothing exciting to report and nothing much to tell about except the incredible sunrises and sunsets.   The background colors of this page are actually a picture of the sunrise reflecting on the water (same as below).  Then, what I thought was my first glimpse of a sea turtle turned out to be my first glimpse of ray.  As we travelled north, we finally figured out what it was when we began seeing them jump out of the water. 














Monday, March 9, 2009:  We didn't plan our arrival in La Paz very carefully and arrived at 2 a.m.  We circled around for four hours until daybreak to proceed to the anchorage.  We immediately spotted "Tigger" and found an open spot close by.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009:  Our first rain drops since we left home last September.  It didn't even get the deck wet but the cloudy sky cooled everyone off significantly.

Thursday, March 12, 2009:  We are fueled up, running over in fresh fruits and vegetables and well provisioned for the trip.  We were told we wouldn't find much in the way of fresh produce so we stocked up.   This being the first day of the new journey up the Sea, we didn't get very far.  We wanted to give Puerto Balandra another chance.  The first time we tried to anchor there, we watched "Tigger" go aground in less than perfect anchoring conditions that sent us to another location.  This time, the wind was not blowing and the water was smooth.  This will give me another chance to photograph the famous "El Hongo", the mushroom rock of Puerto Balandra.

 



  
Friday, March 13, 2009:  9:10 a.m. we're on our way to our next anchorage, Puerto Ballena on Isla Espirtu Santo, a national park.  We arrived in 2 hours and quickly got the dinghy ready to go ashore.  This would be my first day hunting for shells.   This location had not been listed in the cruiser's guide as a good shelling beach so I was thrilled to see so many shells.  In fact, this being my first day to hunt, I found a rare "paper nautilus", a paper thin shell sought after by shell collectors.  It wasn't large like the one on display at the marina office in La Paz, but nonetheless in perfect condition.  It is pictured below under the nose of the skeletal remains of a blow fish.   This particular area of the beach was cluttered with coral and large rocks.  It is also where I found my first sea urchin shells and a not-so-perfect tent olive, but nonetheless, I couldn't have been more pleased.   

 






"From the "Sea of Cortez, A Cruiser's Guidebook" by Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer

"In January 2003 the Mexican and U.S. conservation groups assisted the Mexican government in funding the purchase of the Isla Espiritu Santo island chain for the purpose of protecting these islands.  The Sea of Cortez is the second most diverse marine body in the world and home to 31 species of whales and dolphins, one-third of the world's total.  The region also serves as a breeding ground for sea lions and marine turtles and a migratory corridor for 210 bird species, 500 fish species and 4,848 known species of marine macro-invertebrates and 626 forms of macro algae......."
 

Saturday, March 14, 2009:  The next stop is called "Caleta Partida", a cove between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida.  Colorful rock formations line the shoreline at Caleta Partida.  We took the dinghy between the islands to the east side but the water became too rough so we turned back to explore the beach and fish camp.   We decided not to spend the night here and left for Ensenada Grande five miles away which turned out to be a very rolly anchorage and exposed to the coromuels (winds).  This is a wind that comes up in the evening and blows all night.  This anchorage is recognized by a large white cross, a fishermens' memorial.  It was a good feeling having this cross above us.

  Fishermen Memorial

Sunday, March 15, 2009:  Isla San Francisco, south anchorage.  We spent the night here, after exploring the beach and finding nothing interesting.

Monday, March 16:  We left early to explore the north side of Isla San Francisco where the cruiser's guide promised good shelling.  Nothing to collect as all the shells had been on the beach for a long time, all broken and faded.  But, the pelicans put on a terrific show as usual, diving for their dinner.   After exploring the area, we set sail to Punta San Evaristo on the mainland.

   
Playing take-away.  The seagulls harass the pelicans after they come up with their catch hoping they will drop a fish their way.  

San Evaristo is a small fishing village with about 20 full-time families.  This small town boasts its own desalination plant, school and small tienda (grocery store).  We filled our bags with lots of fresh vegetables and other goodies, including a package of Fig Newton's.  We found that most rural tiendas are federally subsidized. 



Desalination Plant

 Tuesday, March 17, 2009:  A day trip to Punta Salinas on Isla San Jose about 4 miles east of San Evaristo was a fun place to explore.  Punta Salinas was once the site of a large salt mining operation, now abandoned.  Old rusty trucks and heavy equipment remain as well as crumbling buildings.  The best find, however, housed in one of the old buildings was an ancient, very rusty industrial-looking sewing machine still showing its name "Taiyo".  I can only speculate that it was used to sew up the salt bags.
Everyone who knows me well knows that I collect sewing machines, in particular toy sewing machines. I will always have fond memories of finding this one on a small, lonely, desert island in the middle of nowhere!
 
 
   
 

Below:   This old building not only housed the primitive sewing machine but also a collection of flip-flops in the opposite corner.  Only one of each flip-flop was left behind, no doubt, by the many cruisers who visit the island. 

   
   

After several hours exploring Punta Salinas we returned to San Evaristo to spend the night in its safe anchorage.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009:   Next stop is Punta Timbabich at Bahia San Carlos.  Pictured below is the village and in the far right corner is Casa Grande (large house).   "Back in the early 1900's, a local pearl fisherman harvested a large, rare green pearl reported to be at least 5 carats.  The pearl was later sold to finance the building of Casa Grande" (information from "Sea of Cortez"). 

An interesting story:  Shortly after anchoring at Timbabich, a fisherman pulled up to our boat in his panga.  He introduced himself as Manuel and offered to bring us some fish.  We told him that we could only use a small amount, maybe a fish or two depending on the size.  He told us he would return around 5 p.m. with the fish, so we waited for him.  He was right on time with 3 cabrillas and 2 barracudas.  We chose the 3 cabrillas and asked him what we owed him.  He wanted us to take them for free.  We felt it wouldn't be right to accept the fish for free so we offered him 80 pesos.  He reluctantly took the money and then asked if we had a beer.  Not having any beer on board, we gave him a bottle of vodka.  He asked for a glass so he could pour himself a drink, then he handed the bottle back.  We told him it was his to keep.  He almost cried with disbelief that anyone would give him an entire bottle of vodka.  But then he wanted to know if we had any spare batteries, so Charlie gave him 6 D-cell batteries.  By this time I felt for what he got he should clean the fish.  No problem.  I gave him my new fish filleting knife and he went right to work.  I cooked half of the fish that evening and it was the best I've ever tasted. 

The story isn't finished:  The next day at San Marte Bay, Manuel found us again.  He had brought us 3 more cabrillas which, of course, we offered to buy.  This time we gave him 60 pesos (the fish were smaller)  This time he asked if we could spare some gas and we gladly gave him a gallon or so.  We watched as he drove his panga to some boats anchored a short distance away.  The next day we met the people from one of the boats, and they had bought some lobsters from him.  We caught on that this is the way Manuel makes a living........by supplying fish to passing cruisers that he gets from "real fishermen".  Way to go Manuel! 
   

 
 
The Casa Grande can be seen in the far right corner.  Casa Grande at Timbabiche 
 
   
A modern school house at Timbabiche constructed of stucco over foam. The road into the village.  If you look very carefully, you can see "CaST Away" anchored in the bay. 
 
Los Gatos:  This was by far the most beautiful setting with its various red rock formations; some jagged and others so smooth you could walk barefooted across them and white sandy beaches. 
 
   
   
 
     
  Above:  Sharon and pugs (I'm wearing a very skimpy bikini top so that's why I made this picture so small.)  It was very hot out.  Below, Charlie and the pugs enjoy rowing in the Tinker in the crystal clear water.